Something cool from something uncool

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 Got in a minor car accident last week which resulted in my car having to go to the body shop for a week. I've always liked the color of my car, so I figured I'd go out on a limb and ask them if they'd mix up a little extra paint for ol' Sully. 

They did! Woo hoo! It looked so sweet, I had to try it!

 

 

 So.....if you have to take your car to the body shop, and you shoot urethane, ask for some extra; they'll probably give you some

 

 

Mornin' kids!

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I woke up early today and roughed in some body contours on the 71 proto before heading to the office. Definitely a great way to start one's day.

Seems like an apropriate song!

Dust masks are important. As is decorating said dust mask. Also, I love my microplanes!

Roughed in the forearm bevel

Roughed in the cutaway contour and the lap contour

Here's how it is now; clearly a lot more work to do, but it's time to hop in the shower and go to work.

 

 

Where do I start?

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Q: I love guitars, and I want to learn how to build them some day. Where do I start?

 I get this question a lot, and it makes me happy to see that people want to delve into learning more about the instrument many of us love. From learning simple truss rod adjustments to advanced repairs and building your own from a kit or from scratch, there is a LOT of information out there. There’s also a fair amount of conflicting information out there as well. Why? Well, that’s how life is sometimes, and you have to absorb as much as you can, then figure out what works best for you.

 I started out small (hell, I’m microscopic when it comes down to it) and learned how to set up my own guitars and do simple things like neck and bridge adjustments, pickup swaps, things like that. Once I got more seriously interested, I started putting guitars together from parts I’d find here and there; it’s a good way to learn how the parts all work together, for sure. You can pick up “repairman special” parts on ebay all day long – they’re great for learning things like fret work or paint work without having sunk hundreds of dollars into something if/when things don’t go as you planned. After that, I started making my own bodies, and then necks. Granted, that’s not how you need to do it; it’s just what worked best for me at the time.  If you don’t have a ton of tools or a dedicated place to work on stuff, I’d recommend starting small with projects that don’t require a bunch of tools, and accumulate them as you go.

 If you have a guitar store near you with a good reputation for repairs, get to know the person who does the work. Be respectful of their time (they’re working, after all), but build a relationship and if you’re lucky, they may let you observe as they work on some things. That’s essentially how I got started (as mentioned on the About page). If that’s not an option for you, then hit the internet; check out the Trade Secrets archive at the Stewmac site as well as their Free Information section. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve pointed people there to find answers. From finishing schedules to fret calculators and bridge placement locators, there’s a fantastic amount of information there for you. From time to time, I’ve been asked how to figure the neck angle for a build and send them to the Tundra Man Workshop’s Neck Angle Calculator. There's also a massive amount of helpful information about refinishing at The Guitar Reranch. Obviously, there’s YouTube, as well as fantastic forums; like the Luthier’s Corner on the MyLesPaul forum, the Project Guitar Forum and many others. They’re great places to read, learn, and share ideas, and the amount of talent is always inspiring, regardless of your skill level.

 So that’s the free stuff. We all love free stuff, but just like when you’re in school, you gotta buy some books! Without getting all “old man shouting at the kids on his lawn” on you, I strongly believe that it’s important to support those that create; be it music (don’t steal music, kids), books, to mom and pop shops, etc. If you like something, buy it. It’s that simple. Okay, I’m off my soapbox. Here is a list of links to books that I’ve found value in. All of the links go to Amazon, but you can find them in many places.  

Disclaimer: I am in no way affiliated with any of the authors of the information, and I get no cut of a sale if you buy any of their books. I simply found them helpful, so you may have a similar experience. 

The Guitar Player Repair Guide by Dan Erlewine

Fret Work Step by Step by Erick Coleman and Dan Erlewine

Guitar Finishing Step by Step by Dan Erlewine and Don MacRostie

Electric Guitar Construction: A Guide for the First Time builder by Tom Hirst

Make Your Own Electric Guitar by Melvyn Hiscock
Electric Guitar and Bass Design by Leonardo Lesponnato

Anyway, that oughta help you get your feet wet. Go forth and absorb!

 

Z-Poxy - FAQs

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 One of the most common questions I get seems to be related to Z-Poxy; what can be used over it, under it, should I use it, is it good with fish or better with beef) So I thought I’d try to shed a bit of light on all of the above. 

Where can I get it?

I get it from LMI

When to use it: “I’ve got an Alder/Basswood/Poplar/Maple body and___________.”

Stop – you don’t need to use Z-Poxy because those woods have tight grain and do not require filling. Seal it/prime it, shoot your color, clear, and collect your $200. Although if the wood you’re finishing is Mahogany, Ash, Korina/Limba, Walnut, Spanish Cedar, you’ll definitely be pore filling (unless you like the open pore look. I don’t, but that’s me, and you asked. :) ).

 Can I shoot nitro or catalyzed urethane clear over it?

Yep. 

Can I mix stain/dye/tint into the Z-Poxy?

I wouldn’t; you’ll usually have 3-4 applications before it’s complete, and you may have some sand throughs and such (just like with clear coat sometimes – D’oh!), which means your color will be uneven. So….if you’re planning on a transparent finish that you’re applying directly to the wood, do that first, then add your Z-Poxy, but keep in mind that with the multiple coats, you may have uneven color. One other thing to consider is tint; there’s definitely an amber tint to the stuff, and in many cases, that’s fine. However, if you’ve got an ash body that you just wiped blue dye on, you’ll have a trans greenish body after the Z-Poxy hits it, and that’ll make you a sad lil’ panda.

Do I need to add a sealer of some kind on top of the Z-Poxy?

I’d say it depends. If you’re shooting a transparent finish of some sort over the Z-poxy (like I did on this Raven), it would serve as a nice barrier between the Z-Poxy and what you’re about to shoot over it. Say for example, that you were going to shoot a burst pattern but didn’t like how it came out, so you decide to sand it back – aren’t you glad you have some protection on the Z-Poxy so you don’t have to reapply it in a spot because you sanded through it? Yes, yes you will. However, if you’re shooting a solid color over it, I wouldn’t bother; shoot your primer over it and move on.

 

 

Dee J Nelson in Guitar Player Magazine!

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That's right, guitar instructor DJ Nelson creator of Monster Power Chords and Lead Guitar DNA is sharing a lesson with the readers of Guitar Player. In the lesson example DJ uses the whole tone scale in a simple pentatonic format. The lesson can be found on page 96 in the February 2013 issue. If you don't subscribe to the magazine it can be read through iNewsstand on the iPad and iPhone.

Check it out, yo!

Sanded back, want to stain and clear; do I need Z-Poxy?

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First guitar being rebuilt as we speak. A 2000 Mexican Made Fender Telecaster, Midnight blue(purple). the Guitar itself is amazing. I had to get rid of the color. I have the guitar sanded down to bare wood(alder). My plan is to use a wood conditioner, a dark stain(minwax) and some poly over top. Buffed to a beautiful shine. Am I able to use Z-poxy over my stain? or will that mess it up?

Since the body is Alder, there is no need to invite Z-Poxy to the party. I would, however, recommend shooting sealer over your color before you clear it, though.